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Ezekiel Moore
Ezekiel Moore

A Small Home [v0.2] [UPDATED]


The STEPPER_BUZZ command will cause the given stepper to move one millimeter in a positive direction and then it will return to its starting position. (If the endstop is defined at position_endstop=0 then at the start of each movement the stepper will move away from the endstop.) It will perform this oscillation ten times. For some motors, we will verify direction again later, nowever ideally all motors will be running correctly at the end of this test. See the list below. Note, if you have trouble seeing what direction a motor is rotating, try adding a small sharpy mark on the pulley




A Small Home [v0.2]



Once there is a tested process for stopping the printer in case of something going wrong, you can test X and Y movement. note: you will need to test X AND Y before you can correctly determine what adjustments are needed. First, send a G28 X command. This will only home X: The tool head should move up slightly and then move to the right until it hits the X endstop. If it moves any other direction, abort, take note, but still move on to testing Y. Next, test Y: run G28 Y. The toolhead should move to the back of the printer until it hits the Y endstop. In a CoreXY configuration, both motors have to move in order to get the toolhead to go in only and X or Y direction (think Etch A Sketch). If the gantry moves downward first before moving to the right, you must reverse your z stepper directions in the config.


If X and Y offsets are within 5mm or 0,0 is past the bed, the position_max values should be adjusted to change where the 0,0 point is computed. If the 0,0 is over the bed, the distance from the home point to the front left (position_max) must be increased. If the 0,0 is past the bed, the distance must be decreased. The amount is determined by the output of the M114 command. Update position_max and position_endstop for both [stepper_x] and [stepper_y] as follows:


The V0 uses manual bed leveling. The bed is small enough and thick enough that a mesh or other types of per print leveling should not be needed. There is a macro in Klipper to help with the manual bed leveling process: BED_SCREWS_ADJUST


Once the screw is adjusted so that a small amount of friction is felt, run either the ACCEPT or ADJUSTED command. Use the ADJUSTED command if the bed screw needed an adjustment (typically anything more than about 1/8th of a turn of the screw). Use the ACCEPT command if no significant adjustment is necessary. Both commands will cause the tool to proceed to the next screw. (When an ADJUSTED command is used, the tool will schedule an additional cycle of bed screw adjustments; the tool completes successfully when all bed screws are verified to not require any significant adjustments.) One can use the ABORT command to exit the tool early.


The largest roads are 14px wide without and 12px (6px/direction=2lanes/dir) with a mid gap, medium roads are 9px, small 2way roads 6px. and the driveways / small country roads are 3px (I might increase some to 4px depending on your views).


Thanks. I've made the small buildings around 10-20 tiles and 1-2 small bedrooms so tiny would be anything smaller than that. Maybe up to 30 or 20 and two storys for the medium and so on. Use your own judgement within reason.


Update: We've got a small team of 4 now going on and we're starting to get our first finished building packs to be added for the map. I've also finished 5 additional cells in the mapping, so that's ten out of a hundred! We've now got thanks to our members and contributors, a total of 31 different buildings, including train hulls, a grain silo, garages and a whole bunch of different sized homes!


First let's amp up the building count! We now have a whopping 75 buildings! The new buildings include a gas station, A baseball field! lots of tiny, small and medium sized homes and a quaint little gazebo. Thanks to all who have contributed so far!


The mapping has gone slightly slower due to mainly me drinking too much in the weekend and suffering from that subsequently. Regardless, I've finished 3 new cells and started plotting some buildings into the world map. I've also made a small description for the map for when it will be put in the world. I've included that in the beginning of the OP. Check it out and tell me what you think.


This is from the town of Vine Grove and that is the main street which has some nice cozy homes and will someday hopefully have the town hall and some more houses *wink wink builders*. This is just something I threw together in 5 minutes and isn't the final product, but it's something I wanted to share with you guys in the glory of Mondoid! You can compare it to the actual place and see what you think about it. (It's not meant to be a copy, but more of an inspiration as with Muldraugh and West Point )


Moving from the ESP8266 world I've been diving lately I still love the simplicity of battery powered Moteino nodes. You might know I'm migrating my XBee-based sensor network at home to an RFM69 one. So long I have changed my door monitor and my weather station. They are sensing and reporting to my RFM69GW, an ESP8266 bridge board using a custom firmware.


I did not want to spend a lot of money on the boards so making them small made sense. I also wanted the component count to be low. I don't need super-exact readings, so I discarded adding a buffered input or an opamp amplifier.


Using Moteino as the platform is also a good choice. The board is small and with just the proper components. It supports different radios already and it's meant to be stackable. And the awesome work of Felix Rusu and Thomas Studwell with the RFM69 library with automatic power transmit control and RocketScream Low-Power library can make it really low-power.


You can configure almost everything from the settings.h file (you will first have to make a copy from the settings.h.sample). In particular pay attention to the CURRENT_RATIO constant. I use to compare values with other power meters I have at home (an Efergy, a no-name chinese one and a current clamp) and I modify this value to match the other's readings.


SmartThings v3 is a complete overhaul of its hub, outlet, and multipurpose, motion, and water leak sensors. They also added a new button that you can program to run different automations around your home.


WiFi connection. Comparing SmartThings v2 vs v3, the biggest upgrade in the v3 hub is an option to work with WiFi. This lets it control your home without plugging into your router. We tested this for our SmartThings v3 review and it worked just as quickly as the v2 hub that was plugged into ethernet. Note that the version 3 hub still has an ethernet port if you want the option of plugging it into your router.


Cheaper price. SmartThings v3 hub starts at $70, instead of the v2 price of $100 (now dropped to $90 since the release of the v3 hub). We are big fans of upgrading smart home tech while bringing down the price.


The SmartThings multipurpose sensors are designed for tracking when windows, doors, drawers, or anything else is opened or closed (see our list of 39 SmartThings ideas to brainstorm other uses). Comparing SmartThings v2 and v3, both multipurpose sensors also have vibration, accelerometer, and temperature sensors, giving them plenty of other functionality for automating your home.


Cheaper price. Originally $40, the new multipurpose sensors are now $20, making it way more affordable to cover your home in these versatile sensors. This is the biggest and most necessary price slash for sensors when looking at SmartThings v2 vs v3. Even if you have version 2 multipurpose sensors, you can easily add two version 3 sensors for the price of one version 2 sensor.


SmartThings motion sensors are used to track motion and trigger different actions when motion is seen. You can connect them to your lights, security cameras, and other devices to automate your home based on when people are coming or going.


SmartThings outlets plug into the wall to make anything smart. Plug in basic appliances like a fan, lamp, or coffeemaker and it will have advanced smart home controls. You can schedule or automate when the outlet switches the device on or off. SmartThings v2 vs v3 outlets are priced the same, but the new outlet does have a few upgrades worth mentioning.


Size. SmartThings new v3 outlet is slightly smaller and lighter than the original outlet. The original outlet awkwardly has the status light on the side, making it look bulky. The new outlet has a status light on the top: the design looks cleaner and just makes more sense. The smaller size is a big perk because it takes up less space on the outlet and blends into your walls better.


The version 3 hub uses the new SmartThings Connect app. This is a completely different app compared to the original SmartThings app. It has some improved features: for example, you can view all of your devices from multiple hubs in one list instead of having to toggle between hubs like the current app. This could be nice if you have a second hub at your guest home.


SmartThings version 3 hardware is more affordable and higher quality, so they should improve your smart home environment whether you are a newbie or an expert. We were really impressed with all of the new tech during research for our SmartThings v3 review.


We released v0.2 of Javis a few days back and even though I've posted about one of my favorite features of that release about three weeks ago (Using Animations.jl for Javis), I would like to post here about some other things we have added and talk a bit about the future of Javis as well.


Bdale and I got a chance to test fly the new version(0.2) of our TeleMetrum flight computers. Bdale flew with theAlbuquerque Rocket Society down in New Mexicowhile I flew near home withOregon Rocketry during ourFebruary model launch.


The field we use for model launches is surrounded by tall fir trees,so we tend to stick to reasonably small motors. This time, I loaded upan Aerotech 24mm E18 motor and trimmed the delay down to about 5seconds as this rocket uses simple motor ejection. This flight didn'texercise the new ejection circuitry. In any case, the flight wasperfect, telemetry worked all the way down to the ground using justa 1/4 wave whip antenna on the receiver. 041b061a72


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